Prague, Czech Republic

When I was a young man, I dreamt of European travels like so many others.  Of Paris, Rome, and London.  With each city I visited, though, there was a cadre of other travelers who kept telling me about a well-known secret: Prague.  I barely knew of the place when I started out, but after dozens of travelers have sung its praises I have put it high on the travel priority list.  So when the chance came to come to Prague for an epilepsy conference, the decision was already made.

View of Prague Castle from the waterfront at night.

It's easy to see why so many people fall in love with this city.  It has all of the best parts of Europe in one city that is cheaper, safer, and less overwhelming.  Prague has a history that spans over a millennium, and its architecture has escaped tw
o World Wars practically unscathed.  It has medieval style castles next to baroque cathedrals near some more abstract modern architecture.  Wandering through the streets at times feels like a Renaissance playground, only without the Black Death.  There are kitschy activities and there are museums with spectacular exhibits.  There are places of ill repute next to churches more spectacular than anything you'd find in the United States.  It's a perfect place to make poor decisions while feeling deeply connected to human history.

"The Dancing Building," a random office building among older architecture.

The streets are mostly cobblestone and typically are alive with people from all walks of life.  It's just the right amount of activity to feel like you're in a bustling city, but not so big so as to feel overwhelming.  The people are surprisingly friendly - both the pedestrians on the street and the drivers who have to deal with them. Traffic flow is helped by the presence of numerous bridges over the Vltava River, which is teeming with tourists on paddleboards, party boats, floating beach volleyball courts, running in giant clear plastic balls, or sitting around a floating barbecue.  Oh, and there's a Captain Morgan ship anchored along the waterfront.  The whole thing feels more like a much classier Acapulco.

Party boats, paddleboarders, and swans on the Vltava River, with Prague Castle in the background.

And there are a lot of things begging to claim your money.

The most famous of said bridges is the Charles Bridge, a wide cobblestone bridge built in the 1300's that now serves as the primary tourist hub.  On one side, there is Old City, with high Gothic style buildings reminiscent of the late Medieval period.  On the other side is the New City, with numerous modern upscale restaurants surrounded by baroque architecture.  In between you will find innumerable tourists, Catholicism-inspired statues, and a lot of beggars.

The cemetery at the Basilica of St. Peter & Paul

A trip to Prague would also not be complete without a trip to Vysehrad, an unpronounceable hill fortress that is about a 20 minute walk south from the center of the city.  It houses the Basilica of St. Peter and Paul, as well as some of the most beautiful views of Prague.  It also is the home to a surprising number of American college students, in all of their typical American eloquence.  The abundance of Americans extends even to the beggars, who all too often have an unmistakable American accent.

The view of Prague from Vysehrad.

Having never visited Eastern Europe before, the food is unique. First of all, water is never included with meals, as the locals drink far more beer than water.  It may be the only place in the world where beer is cheaper than water.  As for the food, most dishes are spiced simply with salt and pepper and make heavy use of potato, cabbage, beets, pork, and duck.  Our favorite is one of the most simple dishes: goulash.  People take their goulash seriously here, and the result is the most tender, flavorful beef stew with a sauce thick enough to stand up on your plate.  It typically is paired with a potato dumpling that resembles a chewier, paler version of white bread with a surprisingly rich flavor.  Speaking of potato, gnocchi is offered at nearly every restaurant and is always the perfect consistency - almost like a giant noodle.  Entrees are typically paired with beets and/or cabbage.  I imagine this would be a downside for most people, but Noor and I found it to be a huge plus.

This post will hopefully be updated once we visit the Clementinum, a spectacular library in the old part of town.  But we had too many pictures that we felt the urgent need to share.  Next up on this journey is Bratislava and Vienna.  Until then!